Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil
A light, lauric-acid-rich oil that is one of the few shown to enter the hair shaft. Popular as a pre-poo to reduce protein loss during washing.
About Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil
Coconut oil is pressed from the dried meat of the coconut. About half of its fatty acids are lauric acid, a medium-length, straight-chain fatty acid. That small, simple shape is the reason coconut oil behaves differently from most oils: laboratory studies found that it can pass into the hair shaft, while oils such as mineral oil mostly stay on the surface.
In one widely cited study, hair treated with coconut oil before and after washing lost less protein than untreated hair or hair treated with mineral or sunflower oil. That is the basis for using coconut oil as a pre-poo — applying it to dry or damp hair 20–30 minutes before shampooing so the hair swells less and loses less protein when it gets wet.
It also works as a light sealant and shine oil. Below about 76 °F (24 °C) it turns solid, so it may look white or clumpy in the jar in winter; it melts quickly in the hands.
Many people with coily hair love it, but a noticeable number report that coconut oil leaves their hair stiff, dry-feeling or crunchy — often people with low porosity or coarse strands. This is widely reported but not well studied. If that happens to you, try it only as a pre-poo or switch to a different oil. Coconut oil is approved for the Curly Girl Method. Fractionated coconut oil (caprylic/capric triglyceride) is a different, liquid ingredient.
How our checker rates it
| Mode | Rating | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Curly Girl | OK | No concerns for this mode. |
| Relaxed hair | Good | Softens and helps seal in moisture. |
| Low porosity | Good | Lighter oil — less likely to weigh hair down. |
| Protein-sensitive | OK | No concerns for this mode. |
Ratings assume it is listed near the top of the label. After the first preservative or fragrance (likely 1% or less) most cautions soften.
What oil ingredients do
Plant and synthetic oils that soften, add shine and slow moisture loss. Some (like coconut) can enter the hair shaft; most coat the surface.
It is one of the oils able to enter the hair shaft rather than only coating the surface.
Also listed as
- coconut oil
- cocos nucifera oil
- virgin coconut oil
- extra virgin coconut oil
- unrefined coconut oil
- refined coconut oil
Similar ingredients
Sources
Last data update:
- Rele AS, Mohile RB. Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. J Cosmet Sci. 2003;54(2):175-192. Coconut oil reduced protein loss in hair; mineral and sunflower oil did not.
- Keis K, Persaud D, Kamath YK, Rele AS. Investigation of penetration abilities of various oils into human hair fibers. J Cosmet Sci. 2005;56(5):283-295. Coconut oil penetrates the hair shaft; mineral oil does not.
- Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th ed. Springer; 2012. Reference text on hair structure, surfactants, conditioning agents, protein, heat and chemical treatments.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Ingredient safety assessments. Safety assessments for cosmetic ingredients cited on ingredient pages.
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