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Relaxer Strength Quiz

Six questions about your strands, curl pattern, chemical history and scalp show what strength relaxer you should use — or whether to wait.

Question 1 of 6

How thick are your individual strands?

Compare one strand of new growth to a piece of sewing thread.

How to use the Relaxer Strength Quiz

  1. Answer the two texture questions

    Choose your strand thickness and how tight your natural curl pattern is. Look at your new growth, not your relaxed lengths.

  2. Describe your chemical history and scalp

    Say whether your hair is unprocessed, relaxed, color-treated or bleached, and whether your scalp is calm, sensitive or irritated right now.

  3. Rate your hair’s condition and pick your goal

    Choose strong, dry or damaged, then fully straight or texlaxed.

  4. Press “Show my strength”

    You see mild, regular or super with the reasons, lye and no-lye notes and a safety checklist — or a clear “do not relax right now” if your hair or scalp is not ready.

  5. Take the result to your stylist

    Use it as a starting point. A strand test and the manufacturer’s instructions have the final word.

How to use the Relaxer Strength Quiz (60 s)

How the quiz decides what strength relaxer you should use

A relaxer is a strongly alkaline cream that permanently breaks and rearranges bonds inside the hair so that curls stay straight. Kits come in mild, regular and super strengths, which differ in how much of the active ingredient they contain. The quiz follows the way those strengths are labelled and adds the safety checks a careful stylist would make. It is a rule of thumb for starting the conversation, not a prescription.

Step 1: strands and curl pattern set the starting strength

Strand thickness matters most. Fine strands process quickly and over-process easily, so they always start at mild. Medium strands start at regular, or mild when the curl pattern is loose. Coarse strands start at regular, and only coarse strands with tight coils start at super. The chart below shows all nine combinations.

Step 2: history, scalp, condition and goal can only lower it

Nothing in the quiz ever raises the strength. Color-treated hair goes to mild because it is already chemically processed. A sensitive scalp, dry or brittle hair, and a texlaxed goal each move the result one strength down, never below mild.

Step 3: three answers stop the quiz

Bleached or lightened hair, hair that is already breaking or thinning, and an irritated scalp all give the same result: do not relax right now. That answer wins over everything else, however coarse or resistant the hair is. Studies of relaxed hair show less of the amino acid cystine and more damage toward the ends, and people who relax commonly report hair and scalp problems afterwards — so hair and skin that are already compromised are the wrong place to start.

Lye and no-lye

Strength and formula are separate choices. Either formula comes in all three strengths. The result explains both types and suggests no-lye when you report a sensitive scalp.

What the quiz cannot tell you

It cannot feel your hair, see your scalp or watch the relaxer working. It does not give processing times: follow the manufacturer’s timing and have a licensed stylist do a strand test first. If you are unsure whether your hair is strong enough, the protein or moisture quiz is a good check before you book. Between touch-ups, the relaxer stretch planner maps out the weeks, and if you would rather stop relaxing, the transitioning to natural hair calculator shows the timeline.

Relaxer strength chart: mild, regular and super

Strength Usually labelled for
Mild Fine strands, looser curl patterns, color-treated or fragile hair
Regular Medium strands with defined curls or coils — most heads
Super Coarse, tightly coiled, resistant hair with no other chemical history

Starting strength by strand thickness and curl pattern

Strands Waves or loose curlsDefined curlsTight coils or zig-zags
Fine MildMildMild
Medium MildRegularRegular
Coarse RegularRegularSuper

What changes the result

Your answer Effect
Color-treated hair (no bleach) Mild, whatever the starting strength
Sensitive scalp One strength down; no-lye formula suggested
Dry or slightly brittle hair One strength down
Texlaxed result wanted One strength down
Bleached or lightened hair Do not relax right now
Damaged hair: breaking, gummy or thinning Do not relax right now
Irritated scalp: sore, scratched, cuts or scabs Do not relax right now

Lye vs no-lye

Lye (sodium hydroxide)
Works fast and rinses out cleanly, which is why stylists often prefer it. It is harsher on the scalp, so the scalp must be based and the timing watched closely.
No-lye (calcium hydroxide mixed with an activator, or lithium or potassium hydroxide)
Usually easier on the scalp and the type found in most home kits. It is still a strong chemical, and it can leave mineral deposits that make hair feel dry and dull — a chelating shampoo helps.

Frequently asked questions

What strength relaxer should I use?
As a rule of thumb, mild suits fine strands, looser curl patterns and color-treated hair; regular suits medium strands with defined curls or coils, which is most people; and super is only for coarse, tightly coiled, resistant hair with no other chemical history. A strand test with a licensed stylist should confirm it.

What is the difference between mild, regular and super relaxer?
The difference is the concentration of the active alkaline ingredient. Mild has the least and super has the most, so super straightens resistant hair but is also the easiest to over-process with. Strength is not a measure of quality, and a stronger relaxer is not a better one.

Should I use super strength if my hair is very coarse?
Only if your strands are coarse and tightly coiled, your hair is strong, your scalp is calm and there is no color or bleach on it. If any of those is not true, regular is the safer choice. Never pick a stronger formula just to save time.

Is no-lye relaxer better than lye?
Neither is better for everyone. No-lye formulas are usually easier on the scalp but can leave mineral deposits that make hair feel dry. Lye formulas rinse out cleanly but are harsher on the scalp. Both are strong chemicals that permanently change the hair.

Can I relax bleached or color-treated hair?
Do not relax bleached or lightened hair — relaxer kits warn against it because the breakage risk is very high. Hair with permanent or demi-permanent color and no bleach can sometimes be relaxed with a mild formula, by a stylist, after a strand test, with at least two weeks between the two services.

How long should I leave a relaxer on?
This quiz does not give processing times on purpose. Follow the manufacturer’s timing for your exact product and hair type, and never leave it on longer to get hair straighter. Rinse immediately if your scalp burns.

What does texlaxed mean?
Texlaxed hair has been relaxed only part of the way, so it is looser and easier to manage but keeps some texture. It is usually done with a milder strength and a stylist’s judgement. To plan the weeks between touch-ups, use the relaxer stretch planner.

When should I not relax my hair at all?
Skip the relaxer if your hair is bleached, breaking, gummy when wet or thinning, or if your scalp is sore, scratched, flaking heavily or has cuts or scabs. For scalp pain, sores, sudden shedding or bald patches, see a board-certified dermatologist.

Sources

Last data update:

  1. Bolduc C, Shapiro J. Hair care products: waving, straightening, conditioning, and coloring. Clin Dermatol. 2001;19(4):431-436. Overview of how relaxers (lye and no-lye) and other chemical services work and their risks.
  2. Shetty VH, Shetty NJ, Nair DG. Chemical hair relaxers have adverse effects a myth or reality. Int J Trichology. 2013;5(1):26-28. Reported adverse effects of chemical relaxers on hair and scalp.
  3. Khumalo NP, Stone J, Gumedze F, et al. 'Relaxers' damage hair: evidence from amino acid analysis. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2010;62(3):402-408. Relaxed hair shows reduced cystine and structural damage that increases toward the ends.

How we research and update pages: editorial policy. Spotted an error? Tell us.

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