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LJ HairLab

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Hair Oil Blend Builder

Find the best oil for low, normal or high porosity hair and get a measured blend in milliliters and drops — with a printable label.

Your hair porosity

Not sure? Take the porosity test — it sends your result back here.

What is the oil for?
Bottle size

Kept at 2% or less of the blend.

How to use the Hair Oil Blend Builder

  1. Choose your porosity

    Pick Low, Normal or High. If you are not sure, take the porosity test first — it sends your result straight back to this tool.

  2. Pick what the oil is for

    Choose shine, sealing in moisture, scalp massage, pre-poo or a finish for heat-styled hair. The goal decides which oils score highest.

  3. Set the bottle size and extras

    Choose 30, 60 or 120 ml. Add an essential oil if you like (kept at 2% or less) and tick “Nut allergy” to leave out nut oils.

  4. Press “Build my blend”

    You get two to four carrier oils with their share of the bottle in milliliters and teaspoons, essential-oil drops, and why each oil was chosen.

  5. Read the safety notes and save it

    Patch test before first use. Download the recipe PDF or the printable bottle labels, or copy the link to reopen the same blend.

How to use the Hair Oil Blend Builder (61 s)

How it works

The builder scores each of the 30 carrier oils in our database against your porosity and what you want the oil to do, then mixes the top two to four into a bottle of the size you choose. Everything runs in your browser.

1. Weight matched to porosity

Porosity describes how easily water gets into the hair and how fast it leaves. Low-porosity hair has a tightly closed cuticle, so heavy oils sit on top and feel greasy — the builder favors light oils such as grapeseed, jojoba and argan, and never picks a heavy oil for low porosity. That is also how it answers the most common question we get, the best oil for low porosity hair: something light, used sparingly on damp hair. High-porosity hair loses water quickly, so medium and heavy oils that slow that loss score higher.

2. The goal decides the rest

Each oil is tagged with what it is good for — shine, sealing, scalp massage or pre-poo. A match adds points. For a pre-poo, and for sealing high-porosity hair, oils with evidence that they enter the hair shaft get extra weight. Only coconut oil is marked as shown to penetrate; olive, avocado and babassu are marked “may partly penetrate” because the evidence is limited.

3. Sensible proportions

The top oil becomes the base (40–60% of the bottle) and the others fill smaller shares. Very thick or strong-smelling oils are capped — castor at 25%, black seed and tamanu at 20%, neem at 10% — so the blend stays easy to spread. Two oils with the same INCI name, such as castor and Jamaican black castor, are never paired.

4. Essential oils, carefully

If you add an essential oil, it is limited to 2% of the blend, or 1% for peppermint and tea tree. Drops are estimated at about 20 per milliliter, a common dropper approximation — real droppers vary. These are cosmetic add-ins, not treatments.

Limits

  • Oils don't add moisture on their own; they slow its loss. Use them after a water-based product.
  • Oils are not heat protectants, whatever their smoke point.
  • Nut-derived oils are flagged, but cross-reactions are not always known. If you have allergies, ask your allergist.
  • Shelf lives are typical values for opened oils stored cool and dark — trust your nose.

Carrier oils at a glance

Oil Weight Penetration Best for Smoke point* Shelf life
Apricot kernel oil(nut) Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil light Mostly coats the surface Shine, Scalp — about 1 year
Argan oil(nut) Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil light Mostly coats the surface Shine, Sealing — about 1 year
Broccoli seed oil Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Seed Oil light Mostly coats the surface Shine — 1–2 years
Camellia seed oil Camellia Japonica Seed Oil light Mostly coats the surface Shine, Sealing — 1–2 years
Fractionated coconut oil Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride light Mostly coats the surface Shine, Scalp — 2 years or more
Grapeseed oil Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil light Mostly coats the surface Shine, Scalp, Sealing 390–420 °F 6–12 months
Hemp seed oil Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil light Mostly coats the surface Scalp, Shine ≈ 330 °F 6–12 months (refrigerate)
Jojoba oil Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil light Mostly coats the surface Scalp, Shine, Sealing — 2 years or more
Kukui nut oil(nut) Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil light Mostly coats the surface Shine, Scalp — 6–12 months
Marula oil(nut) Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil light Mostly coats the surface Shine, Sealing — about 2 years
Meadowfoam seed oil Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil light Mostly coats the surface Shine, Sealing — 2 years or more
Moringa oil Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil light Mostly coats the surface Shine, Scalp — about 2 years
Rice bran oil Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil light Mostly coats the surface Shine, Sealing ≈ 450 °F 1–2 years
Rosehip seed oil Rosa Canina Fruit Oil light Mostly coats the surface Shine — 6–12 months (refrigerate)
Safflower oil Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil light Mostly coats the surface Shine, Scalp 225–510 °F about 1 year
Sunflower seed oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil light Mostly coats the surface Shine, Sealing 225–450 °F about 1 year
Babassu oil(nut) Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil medium May partly penetrate (limited evidence) Pre-poo, Shine — about 2 years
Baobab oil Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil medium Mostly coats the surface Sealing, Shine — about 2 years
Black seed oil Nigella Sativa Seed Oil medium Mostly coats the surface Scalp — 1–2 years
Coconut oil Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil medium Shown to penetrate Pre-poo, Sealing, Shine 350–450 °F about 2 years
Macadamia oil(nut) Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil medium Mostly coats the surface Sealing, Shine ≈ 410 °F 1–2 years
Pumpkin seed oil Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil medium Mostly coats the surface Scalp — about 1 year
Sesame oil (untoasted) Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil medium Mostly coats the surface Sealing, Scalp 350–410 °F 1–2 years
Sweet almond oil(nut) Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil medium Mostly coats the surface Sealing, Scalp, Shine 320–420 °F about 1 year
Avocado oil Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil heavy May partly penetrate (limited evidence) Sealing, Pre-poo 375–520 °F about 1 year
Castor oil Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil heavy Mostly coats the surface Sealing, Scalp — 1–2 years
Jamaican black castor oil Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil heavy Mostly coats the surface Sealing, Scalp — 1–2 years
Neem oil Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil heavy Mostly coats the surface Scalp — 1–2 years
Olive oil Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil heavy May partly penetrate (limited evidence) Sealing, Pre-poo 350–465 °F about 18 months
Tamanu oil(nut) Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil heavy Mostly coats the surface Scalp — about 2 years

*Approximate cooking-data ranges from unrefined to refined oil; “—” means not well documented. Smoke point is not heat protection — use a dedicated heat protectant before hot tools.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best oil for low porosity hair?

Light oils that soak in instead of sitting on top — grapeseed, jojoba, argan, camellia and sweet almond are common picks. Use a few drops on damp hair, or warm the oil first. Heavy oils like castor and olive tend to sit on low-porosity hair and leave it greasy.

What oils are good for high porosity hair?

Thicker oils that slow water loss — avocado and olive, with castor as a small part of a blend — work well for sealing. For a pre-poo, coconut oil is the best-studied choice: in lab tests it entered the hair shaft and reduced protein loss during washing.

Does coconut oil penetrate the hair?

Yes. Several lab studies found coconut oil inside the hair shaft, while mineral oil and sunflower oil stayed mostly on the surface. That is why it is a popular pre-poo. Some people with low-porosity or protein-sensitive hair find it leaves their hair stiff — if so, switch to a lighter oil.

Can I use an oil blend as a heat protectant?

No. A high smoke point only tells you when an oil starts to smoke in a pan; it does not shield hair from a 400 °F flat iron, and oil on the plates can fry strands. Use a product made as a heat protectant before heat, and save your blend for a drop or two afterward.

How much essential oil should I add to a hair oil?

Keep essential oils at 2% of the blend or less — about 24 drops in 60 ml — and at 1% for peppermint or tea tree, which irritate more easily. Always patch test, keep the blend away from your eyes, and skip essential oils during pregnancy, while breastfeeding and on children unless a doctor says it is fine.

Do oils moisturize hair?

Not on their own. Moisture in hair means water; oils slow down how fast that water leaves. That is why the usual order is a water-based leave-in first and oil after — the idea behind the LOC and LCO methods.

Is rosemary oil good for hair growth?

The research is limited and early, so we do not promise growth. Many people enjoy rosemary in a scalp oil for the scent and the massage. Dilute it, patch test first, and see a dermatologist if you are dealing with hair loss.

Sources

Last data update:

  1. Rele AS, Mohile RB. Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. J Cosmet Sci. 2003;54(2):175-192. Coconut oil reduced protein loss in hair; mineral and sunflower oil did not.
  2. Keis K, Persaud D, Kamath YK, Rele AS. Investigation of penetration abilities of various oils into human hair fibers. J Cosmet Sci. 2005;56(5):283-295. Coconut oil penetrates the hair shaft; mineral oil does not.
  3. Gode V, Bhalla N, Shirhatti V, Mhaskar S, Kamath Y. Quantitative measurement of the penetration of coconut oil into human hair using radiolabeled coconut oil. J Cosmet Sci. 2012;63(1):27-31. Coconut oil was measured inside the hair shaft after application.
  4. Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th ed. Springer; 2012. Reference text on hair structure, surfactants, conditioning agents, protein, heat and chemical treatments.
  5. Tisserand R, Young R. Essential Oil Safety: A Guide for Health Care Professionals. 2nd ed. Churchill Livingstone; 2014. Reference for essential-oil dilution limits, skin sensitization and use in pregnancy.

How we research and update pages: editorial policy. Spotted an error? Tell us.

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